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Why doesn't my white ink flash with my new quartz flash?
First, check to be sure your quartz flash is on. Then check the temperature of the panel and the distance of the flash from the print. You may need to make some adjustments. Keep in mind that not all quartz flashes are created equal. Different manufacturers use different bulb wattages and energy frequencies. Some flashes are designed for multi-color spectrum and have a difficult time when it comes to whites. Other flashes are designed for whites only. Check with your ink and flash cure manufacturer.
What is "bleed" and how can it be stopped?
"Bleeding", also known as dye migration, occurs when residual dyes in a garment migrate their way into the ink film. The cause could be with the garment (not properly prepared for printing or as a result of the finishing method in manufacturing) or the inks (not properly cured). Bleeding can be controlled on most garments through proper controls on ink selection, application and curing.
What is "fibrillation" and how do you control it?
"Fibrillation" occurs when yarn fibers come through the ink film after washing. Certain types of yarns are more prone to fibrillation than others. How do you control it? Make sure you properly cure the inks and consider using a slightly coarser mesh count. More ink will be deposited which will help minimize the effect.
Why do inks build up on the back of my screens and what can I do to prevent it?
First, check to be sure that the inks you are using are formulated for wet on wet printing. Here are some other tips that may help reduce build up: add some reducer or soft hand additive to the ink; engineer a job so that large coverage areas print later in the sequence; and try using finer meshes.
Why are the inks sticking to the back of my screens making the print look blurry and less opaque?
Many factors might contribute to this situation, including: mesh tension too low, mesh count too low, dull squeegees, and no off contact. Make sure the ink you are using is designed for wet on wet printing. (Some aren't.)
Why are my shirts sticking together when they come out of the dryer?
How long is the "outfeed" of your dryer? When inks come out of the dryer, they are HOT. You may need to let them cool down once the shirts exit the dryer tunnel and before they are stacked. We suggest you place a fan at the tunnel exit, directed away from the dryer, to cool the shirts as they come out of the dryer.
Why are my inks cracking or washing out when the garments are laundered?
The most likely culprit - the inks are improperly cured!
Why are my inks so tacky and why do they stick to the back of the next screen after flashing?
Is the flash cure on? Are you getting the ink too hot? Some inks have "after flash tack". Make sure the inks you are using are designed for flashing. Some inks that have some stretch properties have less than desirable flash characteristics. Adding a small amount (1-3%) of a puff additive can minimize the tack/stick.
What is the difference between "dye migration" and "pigment migration"?
"Dye Migration" occurs when garment dyes migrate up into the ink film, changing the colors of the printed inks. You may have seen red 50/50 t-shirts printed with white ink. That printed white ink may have turned a pinkish color over time due to "dye migration". "Pigment Migration" occurs when ink pigments migrate into other inks that are printed over them. Athletic printers may print a white outline over a blue number. "Pigment migration" occurs when the blue pigment migrates into the white ink.
What if I need to use it on more than one computer, are discounts available?
Yes, but lets be sure you need more than one copy first. a. AccuRIP can be "shared" so if you have many computers but only "one" printer then you only need one copy of AccuRIP. b. If you have a computer (laptop) in two locations, but only have "one" printer, again you don't need two RIP's. When your laptop returns to the network you can use AccuRIP as a shared program and print. If the computers are in different locations and the printer is always in the same location you can create a virtual connection and share the RIP. c. If you have "two" printers and wish to print to them simultaneously, now you need two RIP's and you can receive a 10% discount on the second software. You set setup AccuRIP on two computers and "share" the AccuRIP driver. d. I have two or more printers but I have only one computer. e. You can create driver for each printer. Each time you wish to print to a different printer you open the Setup feature of AccuRIP and set the configurations for that printer then print.
I deleted AccuRIP before I "transferred" the activation, what do I do?
Simply re-install AccuRIP by running the installer again. Open AccuRIP and choose the "Activation Menu then "transfer the activation". Once complete, you can delete the program.
My computer crashed and I need install AccuRIP to another computer
Contact tech support. If you can not access the "Activation Menu" in AccuRIP due to a heard drive crash you will need help moving the code. The security server does not know you crashed so it thinks AccuRIP is still active so its sees a new install as a threat and protects your purchase against theft.
How to move AccuRIP form one computer to another
AccuRIP has a great ability to "share" itself with an unlimited number of computers on the same network making it only necessary to install one version of AccuRIP pre printer onto a single computer. However, sometimes a user wishes to physically "move" the software and that is easy to do. An active internet connection is a must. a. From the "Activation Menu" choose "Transfer Activation". A message will tell the user the process was successful. b. With about 20 minutes for the security servers to fully authorize and use the same code to install AccuRIP to another computer. c. If you have any issues contact tech support.
pdates: AccuRIP is kept "current" and offers all "updates" for FREE. An update is anything that keeps the current version of AccuRIP compatible with Operating System releases. Upgrades: Are are "new version" releases that contain NEW features that enhance the users ability. Version numbers will change with each new version (ie. version 1, 2, 3...).
How do I know what version of AccuRIP I have?
Mac users can look into the "about" window located under the AccuRIP Menu, while Windows users go to the Help Menu and choose "about". This window will show the "version number as well as the build number" of AccuRIP. The build number tells you if your software is the latest release for that version. The higher the number the newer the release.
AccuRIP is so easy to upgrade, download the "latest trial" version from the web and use that installer to update your present version. The installer will recognize your serial number and simply perform the necessary upgrade. All settings will be retained and there will be no need to enter the serial number again.
Printing over raised areas on substrates can pose many problems. here are a few examples of what has worked for me. By: Mark Berryman 1. I have never seen any one able to print over the buttons, if you were to print the buttons this is what you would encounter. as you pull the squeegee across the screen and approach the button, the screen will ride up on the top of the button causing the ink to be deposited all around the button leaving a huge amount of unwanted ink on the substrate. the result would be quite messy and very unprofessional looking. try to avoid these kinds of jobs, I have never seen or known any printers who could pull it off! NOT on buttons. 2. Printing over the zipper or small buttons can be done several ways. if you have script that runs horizontally across the shirt or sweat shirt, divide the artwork in half, or simply cut it in half and measure the space between the buttons or zipper, burn your image the same way. You will have to make a board so the zipper and seem will rest into. think of this like a trench. I have done this by cutting two boards that are the same size of your current platens. Usually 16x16. I used 1/4" thickness for my trench boards. when you have your boards prepared, mark the board with a center line and split the difference between the zipper measurement, you can use a little spray tack to hold the boards in place, at this point I would recommend using a heavy tape( duct tape) to re enforce the boards, tape around the sides and extend the tape over the board and platen, this should keep the boards secure. You will have to adjust the off contact to compensate for the additional 1/4" height. you may want to re-enforce the area of the screen that will come in contact with the zipper or buttons by using a heavy tape, run a thin piece down the middle of the backside of the screen. do this to avoid damaging the screen, I have seen screens split when they have come in contact with the zipper or buttons! OK, let's get on to the printing phase. spray the boards with a little spray adhesive. Place the zipper or buttons into the trench, make sure the zipper and seam are nice and flat. NOW print the substrate, you should have a nice smooth print. the only drawback to this method is the image will be divided. 3. Printing directly on the zipper. Again you can use the same trench board as described before, you may need to use slightly thinner boards. the concept here is to get the surface as flat and even as possible. This time the art will not be separated and you will be printing directly onto the zipper. one approach I have done is to print from side to side as opposed to the regular pull stoke toward the top of the screen, this is helpful because you can use additional pressure when your stroke meets the middle of the zipper, that will help even out the deposit of ink on the surface of the substrate. It will take some practice to get the hang of it, some of the prints may not be 110% perfect but that's the price you will pay when printing over uneven surfaces.
I need to print a design on mesh. Help!
Is there an easy way to print these substrates? Well, not really, there is no quick solution and again there are many variables to consider. So let’s start by taking a look at the material! Typically most mesh substrates are made from Nylon or Polyester or a combination or both. Nylon will shrink and polyester will bleed when heated. Let’s start with nylon and what you can do to minimize a catastrophe! Nylon does not like heat and will shrink when heated. I recommend pre SHRINKING each garment before you take your project to the press, simply run each garment through a conveyor dryer, and reduce the heat to around 270 degrees. If you use a flash heater raise the heater up to avoid burning the substrate. Polyester is similar to nylon; a huge problem with this kind of fabric is the bleed factor. Polyester when heated will give off an invisible gas that will travel up through the layers of ink. You may have seen this on dark garments printed with light colors. Commonly called sublimation or bleeding. The color of the print can change after the print has been heat cured; the color of the garment will show through. For example if you print white on a red polyester garment the end result will be an off reddish white print. I recommend using a low bleed poly white to block out the sublimation or bleeding! Note: you can add catalyst to low bleed polyester ink. What kind of ink should be used? I recommend using Nylon ink with a Catalyst binder. YOU MUST USE A CATALYST OTHERWISE THE INK WILL NOT BIND TO THE SURFACE OF THE SUBSTRATE! Simply add in the catalyst 10% to 15% per volume to the nylon ink, make sure to let it stand for 30 minutes before you attempt to print. The idea is to get the ink to start setting up, I will explain why as we go! Screens, what mesh count? I recommend using a 110 to 156. The typical thought is to get the print thick as possible, not so for this process. We want to lay thin layers flashing in between! If the ink is to thick and you try to gel a thick layer, the holes will fill and the garment will start to shrink or even worse burn! So thin layers and quick flash times are going to work better. Remember the ink is catalylized and it’s going to accelerate the cure times! Next set up your screen just like you would normally do. Since these substrates have holes the ink is going to pool up inside the holes. Here is what I found that works for me. Spray down the platen with a mist adhesive, then place a pellon (test square) over the top. We are going to use the test square to absorb the excess ink that find it’s way in between the mesh. Next, spray more mist adhesive on the pellon and then place the garment over the pallet as you would any other garment, make sure the substrate is secure if it moves simply re apply more mist adhesive! Ok, magic time! Add the ink into screen, I recommend using a 70-durometer squeegee and use a 90-degree angle for the first layer with medium pressure on the stroke. We are looking to for a base layer only, it’s going to look very weak but that’s all right. If you have filled some of the holes don’t panic, they will remain some what wet. Swings the flash over, and flash for a very short time, keep an eye out for shrinkage! Remember the catalyst? It’s going to help speed up the cure time. Now, lower the screen, look through the screen and see if the entire image still lines up, if no shrinkage has occurred proceed with the second layer, use the same technique as before. After you have the second layer on the substrate I always check for a smooth consistent layer, check to see if any of the holes are filled! NOTE: if you are printing a dark color on a light substrate two layers should do, however if you are printing a light color on a dark garment the process may require a third and final layer! Now for the tricky part, the holes are going to start to fill in if they haven’t already. Simply continue with the third pass, remember straight up angle with minimum pressure. Ok, everything looks good but some of the holes are filled, not to worry. There are several ways of getting the plugged holes out! Remember the test square? The ink should have attached itself to the test square… hopefully. Remove the garment from the bottom. I like to roll each side equally from the beginning or the bottom of the print. Carefully pull upward from the bottom, the holes should break free from the mesh and remain on the test square. Keep in mind the holes on the test square are going to be semi wet. Do not drag the garment across that area it will smear on the opposite side, leaving you with lots of spot cleaning! You still have some holes that are closed if they are not totally dried you can use compressed air to blow out the effected area or if they are closed send the garment down the dryer and remove the holes with a good set of tweezers. I recommend changing the test square for each print. For printing on mesh with a lining I would recommend using a jacket clamp. It would be pointless to use a spray adhesive on these types of garments, the backing would stick and the mesh would stick to the back of the screen during the print process. Follow the same procedure as mentioned above, please keep in mind that this type of printing may leave ink on the inside liner. Just a side note. These kinds of projects are some of the most challenging for any screen printer and it takes practice, so fear not with a little practice you to can be the master of athletic printed garments! Good luck.
How do I print a 'distressed' vintage look?
Without anymore detail than provided there are several options to achieve the "distressed look" as I will go through several options. Most screenprinters in the past have actually distressed their positives first and this entails the following: 1. Scratching or beating positives with chains (quite Neanderthal but it does provide a custom look) 2. Tinting your art with a distressed screen Now concerning your ink choices, soft-hand additive is chock full of plastisizers and adding 99% will not give you any softer hand. It will however totally destroy the intensity of color so here are several options. 1. Use a "curable reducer" note the word CURABLE, this is a body reducer that can make the ink have the same characteristics as warm syrup, very runny and it will permeate the fabric. 2. When using soft-hand and especially a curable reducer you'll want to go to a much higher mesh count, nothing lower than a 195 and upwards to a 250 mesh count. This coupled along with an ink that has been reduced using a curable reducer will "dye" the fabric versus just laying it on top. A sharp squeegee, 70 duro plus is recommended, for more saturation you can use a softer squeegee but your last screen should use a hard, sharp duro to drive the colors further into the fabric. 3. Use a halftone tint over your entire design, say starting at a 70% tint. Not my favorite way to reduce hand but your only laying down 70% of the ink. These tips should give you the results you seek, if there is anything else we at Ryonet may help you with please don't hesitate to contact us, thank you.
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